Under the orange trees: a weekend in Sevilla

Sevilla had been on my travel list for quite some time. I booked the trip just two weeks before departing, and without my usual deep dive of research, there was something really refreshing about arriving and letting the city surprise me. Driving into Sevilla for the first time, I was struck immediately by the architecture—beautiful, ornate buildings lining the streets—and the orange trees everywhere.

January is a wonderful time to visit. The crowds are thin, the city feels lived-in and relaxed. If Sevilla hasn't been on your radar, I hope this changes that.

Where to stay

For your first time, I recommend staying in the Santa Cruz neighborhood. It puts you within walking distance of everything—the Cathedral, the Alcázar, the river—and it's genuinely beautiful to wander through, especially early in the morning before anyone else is up.

There are many wonderful hotel options in the neighborhood. I stayed at Hotel Casa 1800 Sevilla and would highly recommend it, but if it's booked you won't have trouble finding something equally lovely. A few others worth looking at:

Luxury

Hotel Alfonso XIII — A grand historic 5-star with stunning Moorish and European architecture, commissioned by Spanish royalty.

Las Casas de la Judería — Elegant and perfectly located in the heart of Santa Cruz.

Mid-range

Hotel Fernando III — Well-loved, great location in Santa Cruz, with a rooftop terrace and city views.

El Rey Moro Hotel Boutique — A highly rated adults-only boutique hotel right in the heart of Santa Cruz.

What to see

The Cathedral, the Real Alcázar, and the Plaza de España are must-sees—and they fully live up to the hype. The Cathedral is the third largest church in the world, and it is breathtaking.

The Real Alcázar is a 14th-century royal palace and one of the oldest still in active use in Europe—the Spanish royal family still stays here today. The Moorish architecture is extraordinary, and if it looks familiar, you may recognize it from Game of Thrones, where it was used as the Water Gardens of Dorne. It's the kind of place you want to linger in, not rush through. Buy tickets in advance here as well.

The Plaza de España, built in 1928, is stunning—a sweeping semicircular building with a canal and tiled alcoves representing every province in Spain. It still houses government offices today and has also appeared in Lawrence of Arabia and Star Wars: Attack of the Clones. It's best visited in the late afternoon when the light is beautiful.

One thing to be aware of — there are women around the plaza who will try to hand you a sprig of rosemary and then ask you for money in exchange. Just politely decline and keep walking.

Right next door, Parque de María Luisa is a beautiful park and a great spot to decompress between sights. Don't skip it.

Where to eat

While San Sebastián still holds the top spot for me when it comes to food in Spain, Sevilla is not far behind. The tapas culture is so lively and fun—bars are packed at lunch and dinner.

Here are the spots I loved most:

La Bartola — Exactly the kind of neighborhood bar you dream of finding. Unpretentious, lively, fantastic tapas. Go early or you'll wait.

Cervecería Giralda — A former Moorish bathhouse turned tapas bar. The setting alone is worth a visit, and the food is genuinely great.

Naturalmente — My favorite discovery. Everything is made from scratch using local, organic ingredients. It's the kind of place that makes eating well feel like a treat rather than a compromise. I left feeling wonderful.

L'Oca Giuliva — This Neapolitan pizzeria is exceptional. Start with the buffalo carpaccio—it is outstanding.

Bar El Comercio — Go here for churros! A proper local institution with no frills and thick hot chocolate. Go in the morning. You may find yourself going back the next day too.

One last note: let yourself wander away from the obvious. Some of the best meals in Sevilla are the ones you stumble into.

Neighborhoods and shopping

Cross the river into Triana when you get the chance. It has a grittier, more local energy than Santa Cruz and it's Sevilla's ceramic heartland—the workshops and shops along Calle San Jorge are worth browsing for an hour or two.

That said, my favorite ceramic find of the entire trip wasn't in Triana. It was back in Santa Cruz, at a small shop called Populart. It is owned by two incredibly kind brothers. They have gorgeous original tiles from the 16th-century and they ship worldwide. I highly recommend seeking it out.

Two days in Sevilla and I was already planning my return. I can't wait to visit again!

I hope this post inspires you to add Andalusia to your travel destinations list—it will not disappoint.

Nos vemos,

Meagan