There's No Place Like Marrakech

There's a saying—you can leave Morocco, but Morocco never leaves you. I've been three times now, and I feel it more after every visit.

Marrakech is a city that hits all your senses at once. The narrow alleyways of the old Medina buzz with motorbikes and merchants, the air is thick with spices and leather, and the call to prayer echoes across rooftops five times a day. It is chaotic, beautiful, and completely unlike anywhere else on earth.

I've been to Marrakech twice before, both times in the spring with Sarah. We were enchanted from the moment we arrived. But this time I came back on my own, at the end of January, and discovered a completely different side of the city. Cooler, quieter, and somehow even more magical. If winter travel to Morocco wasn't on your radar, I hope this changes that.

Getting There

For US travelers, getting to Marrakech is easier than you might think. There are currently two nonstop options:

- Delta Air Lines from Atlanta (ATL)

- United Airlines from Newark (EWR)

I flew Delta's Atlanta route this time and was pleasantly surprised — it felt quicker than most transatlantic flights I've taken. There are also plenty of easy one-stop connections through Europe if neither of those works for you.

How Many Days Do You Need?

You can hit the main sights in 2–3 days, but if you want to actually feel Marrakech—wander through the market, linger over long meals, enjoy a hammam—give yourself 4 full days. That's my sweet spot, and I wouldn't change it.

What to Wear

Morocco is a conservative country, so modest dressing is the way to go. Think loose-fitting clothes, covered shoulders, and skirts or dresses below the knee. A light shawl is incredibly versatile—great for covering up when needed and doubling as a layer on cooler evenings. Comfort on your feet is non-negotiable. You will walk a lot.

As for dressing for the season—on our spring trip, Sarah and I mostly lived in dresses. In January, I packed jeans, sweaters, and a coat for layering. Mornings and evenings can be quite cool, but by midday the sun usually warms things up beautifully.

Is Marrakech Safe?

Yes, I never once felt unsafe in Marrakech, even when I traveled solo. As with any city, being aware of your surroundings goes a long way—but the people are so warm, welcoming, and genuinely hospitable.

Where to Stay

Staying in a riad is one of the great joys of Marrakech. These traditional homes, centered around a courtyard garden or pool, are unlike anything else. And for the full experience, stay inside the Medina.

If it's your first visit, I strongly recommend arranging a private transfer through your riad. Navigating the Medina with luggage for the first time can be overwhelming — the extra cost is absolutely worth the peace of mind. Ask about porter service too; sometimes it's included, otherwise expect around 20 dirham.

My favorite neighborhood is Mouassine. It puts you 5–10 minutes from Jemaa El-Fnaa, steps from Bacha Coffee, close to Madrasa Ben Youssef, and about 20 minutes from Bahia Palace and El Badi Palace. It's central without being chaotic.

Riad Rêve D'Or is where I've stayed both times—and it genuinely feels like a home away from home. It's small, boutique, and breathtaking in every detail. The staff treat you like family, and breakfast is served daily from 8–10 AM. Fair warning: you will become obsessed with Ayoub's Moroccan mint tea.

If you prefer a neighborhood with a more local, quiet feel, Dabachi is a wonderful alternative. Riad Dar Yema is a great option there — about a 10-minute walk to Jemaa El-Fnaa and close to the main attractions.

What to Do

Explore the Souks

Exploring the souk is an experience in itself—you could easily spend days wandering without getting bored. I recommend dedicating at least 2 full days to walking around and shopping for Morocco's best treasures. 

Some people hire a guide to avoid getting lost. I'd say skip it. Getting "lost" was my favorite part. After a few days, you naturally start to recognize streets and landmarks, and Google Maps works surprisingly well throughout the Medina.

You'll find everything here — leather goods, spices, jewelry, clothing, carpets. Don't rush, don't buy the first thing that catches your eye, and when it comes to negotiating, remember: it's about finding a price that feels fair to both sides, not winning an argument.

One thing you absolutely cannot leave without: a caftan. These are traditional long-sleeved tunics worn for weddings and special occasions, and they are stunning. Head to Caftan by Moe in Mouassine for the most beautiful modern caftans and embroidered dresses. They also have gorgeous vest and shirt options for men. My caftan was hands-down my favorite purchase from the entire trip—and Abdul and Ayoub, who work there, are two of the kindest people I've ever met anywhere in the world.

For carpets, Woolenart in Mouassine is exceptional. Mohktar helped me find the most beautiful Handira—a traditional Berber marriage blanket—and the whole experience was genuinely special.

(Yes, I did purchase an extra suitcase.)

Bacha Coffee

Is Bacha Coffee worth the hype? Yes.

Sarah and I loved it so much on our first trip that we went twice.

They are open Tuesday-Sunday from 10 AM to 6 PM. I suggest arriving around 8:30 AM to secure your place in line. You can pass the time quickly by striking up a conversation with your neighbor. There is a 20 dirham entrance fee (free on Fridays!)

The moment you walk in, it is like being transported to another world. Your senses are immediately hit with the aroma of coffee. The interior is absolutely stunning. Once you find your table, go right to taking pictures and videos as the cafe will soon be full of guests trying to do the same.

The moment you walk through the door, you're transported to another world. The aroma hits you immediately and the interiors are stunning. You'll want to get your photos in before the crowds arrive, then you can settle in and browse the extensive coffee menu. Word to the wise: the pots are 25 fl oz. My waiter kindly saved me from ordering four different coffees to try. I started with two. He was right.

Bahia Palace

If you love history and Moroccan architecture, don't miss Bahia Palace. The craftsmanship is extraordinary — the kind of thing you have to see in person to fully appreciate. Entrance is 100 dirham for adults, 30 dirham for children ages 7–13. Completely worth it.

Jemaa El-Fnaa

This iconic square is the heartbeat of Marrakech, and it feels different at every hour of the day. In the daytime, it's juice stands, snake charmers, henna artists, and a steady hum of life. In the evening, it transforms—food stalls appear, performers fill the space, and the energy is electric.

A couple of tips: avoid henna in the square (the quality can be questionable), and if you approach or photograph the animal handlers, expect to pay. For the evening food stalls, I'd suggest walking through for the atmosphere and then finding a proper restaurant nearby for dinner.

Experience a Hammam

On our first trip, Sarah and I visited a hammam every few days—it's something we genuinely looked forward to every time. This trip was no different. The best hammam in Marrakech, in my opinion, is Riad Elisa. The space is absolutely breathtaking. I walked in during shoulder season and got a 2-hour appointment on the spot—if you're visiting during high season, book in advance. There are several packages to choose from. I went with the hammam, massage, and facial (1,400 dirham), which felt entirely reasonable for that level of luxury. Afterward, I relaxed and drank tea. I stayed three hours. I could have stayed all day.

Where to Eat or Get Coffee

I actually ended up not going to any restaurants on my original list and I ended up at even better ones! Here are my favorites:

Kech Cup – A small, charming coffee stall at the end of Rue Mouassine, just before you turn toward Bacha. They use Illy Italian espresso and make a perfect cappuccino. The only downside is being reminded that the same drink costs double back in Florida.

Bacha Coffee – Already covered above. Go.

Mandala society – A great option if you're health-conscious or looking for something seasonal and locally sourced. Plenty of plant-based options. I loved the cappuccino and banana bread—perfect afternoon fuel.

Yazel — Located in Mouassine, with a Levantine (not traditional Moroccan) menu. The food is fantastic, and the staff make the experience even better.

Fontaine de Epices – Also in Mouassine, right next to Le Jardin Secret. Traditional Moroccan food with real flavor. Standout dishes include the Mquila Taktouka with eggs, Moroccan salad, and brania kofta. Friendly staff, great atmosphere.

Dar Al Tunisi – My personal favorite, and it deserves an award. This is a true locals' spot, and I was lucky to discover it through friends who live in Marrakech. The grilled meat is extraordinary. If you want to get outside of your culinary comfort zone, you can try a variety of organ meats as well. I tried them all, and my favorite was the sheep heart. Pair everything with Moroccan tea, and you have a perfect meal.

One last note: don't limit yourself to the Instagram-famous restaurants. While many are beautiful, you'll often overpay for tagine and other Moroccan dishes that you can find with more authentic flavor, better quality, and far better value elsewhere. Let yourself wander. The best meals usually find you.

I hope this inspires you to book that trip — and that you fall in love with Marrakech as hard as I did. Sarah and I can't wait to go back together.

Shukran Bzaf,

Meagan & Sarah